motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
So, now we know why Ichabod will be staying in period clothing and where he gets them.  So clever and not just a little hilarious.

And now...
I'm currently working on finishing up the seventh item1 in my "sew one piece of clothing a week" collection... from October.  Things keep getting slipped into the queue as they have a higher priority.  Like resewing the buttons on my pants again because I'm either losing weight or they are stretching.

And putting gussets in the underarm seam of the sixth item - a basic short-sleeved button-up blouse1 - after completely finishing it, because it was one of those situations where the entire shirt comes up when you lift your arms.  Which is really the point of this post.

After reading Kathleen Fasanella's post about how sleeve cap ease is bogus and what a sleeve cap should look like to follow the actual shape of a person, I wanted to try drafting something like that on the next shirt I made to avoid the shirt-rising problem.

The seventh item is indeed a basic long-sleeved button-up blouse from the same pattern as the short-sleeved.  I took the gusset from the short-sleeved and marked the points where it starts and stops on the arm scye. It makes the bottom of the arm scye over 2" (5cm) higher! And it's not exactly parallel to the floor. It slopes slightly down toward the front.  Not quite as much as some of the pictures in the tailoring forums:armhole-cutter-and-tailor-5-5xBut like this:armhole

I can understand shaping the armhole opening, but the sleeve is beyond my understanding at this point.  Measuring my arm around the deltoids and comparing it to the pattern measurement makes me think I need to add about two inches more in width? Which sort of could correspond to this picture?
sleevecap_comparison

Anyway.

And then there are these which are lesser priority, but frustrating me to think about.

I had to cut myself out of my black and white skirt. Have you ever been able to un-jam an invisible zipper? And it really isn't as full as I originally wanted, so I want to add gores and a new zipper. Which means taking off the bottom black band and making a new one of those.  And I could probably line it this time instead of underlining it. Basically, I would like to make an entirely new skirt. Urg.

The black dress I made from a pattern I thought fit me is exceptionally tight because the waist is too high and I should have lined it, not interlined it.  The corduroy and rayon lining really need to move independently.  Which means, basically, making a whole new dress.  And taking the collar off because it looks a little too... churchy?  Wednesday Addams?

1 From fabric bought for me while visiting home. :)
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
I'm going to draft the rest of this skirt pattern tonight. With my amazing willpower I will get up out of my seat and clean off the plaster of Paris from my sewing table and get cracking. WITH POCKETS.

black-white-flower-dressblack-white-flower-dress-back-3black-white-flower-dress-back-2black-white-flower-dress-side

I always regret not having POCKETS in my skirts or any garment, really, and always forget to put POCKETS in, so emphasis on POCKETS. POCKETSPOCKETSPOCKETS! I'm forgetting it even as I'm typing it! Geez.

DSCN2192

The fabric is 100% cotton decorator fabric that gorthx gifted me a while ago. It was waiting for a decoupage project, because I thought I only had .5 yds, but it turns out it's 1.75 (yay organized stash!). And it fits in really well with my black and white themed collection. Thanks, gorthx! I hope I can piece it as drawn with the yardage I have. The back has slight variations I can't decide on.

The top will come later - a simple boat-neck sleeveless dealy I think I can draft from... something vintage.

Also, I'm debating on sewing this as part of the Fall For Cotton Sew-Along.

My custom lasts are drying in their negative molds. I'm highly suspicious they will not come out well in the toes.

POCKETS!
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
The shoes have been put on hold while I waited for the book to come back to the library, so I switched to...

Making a swimsuit for a vacation that was also, however, put on hold while I waited for the fabric to be pre-washed, so I switched to...

Making things from my stash, which was what I had originally planned to do in January, but was sluggish and unmotivated at that time, which worked out ok because pattern review is having a stash-busting contest.  Based on the person who's already sewn 24 yards1, and the next who's sewn 14, I won't win, but whatevs.

So I've:
- gotten to the point where I'm going to finish the upper and wrap it around my last
- croquised my swimsuit and decided on a design
- made a beach cover-up
- finished the pinstriped dress
- re-fashioned a mohair sweater
- shortened another sweater
- made a headband
- made 3 t-shirts


I'm also working on getting some music I recorded about 7 or 8 years ago up on bandcamp. I need to make some sort of album artwork, and I think I'm close to being done with that.

1 Oh, pardon me, it's actually 36.
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
A few days ago I was croquising (really, it's a word) some vintage patterns to see what might work for some weird, pink, faille, cotton/rayon? fabric I have, which will be dyed, thank you, as I'm not too much of a pink person. Why do I have this fabric? It was super cheap and I used it to line the back of a quilt I made *mumblecough* years ago1. So I have decent yardage.  One of the dresses I thought about making was Retro Butterick 6632.

Butterick-Retro-6632

After croquising it, I realized I had other fabric in my stash that would work really well for this (donated *mumblecough* years ago by my sis2, and remembered and easily accessed now that I'm all organized).
navy-blue-ecru-pinstripe-small

I've been muslining this dress and it is... not progressing smoothly. Ahem. I made a petite adjustment above the waist in the back, which helped the back fit perfectly, but then the front pulled to the back, so I adjusted the front, too, which sort of made it fit really well, but threw off the proportions of the dress bodice and it didn't look so great anymore. But the waist seam is actually at my waist.

And the square neckline is not square, it curves upwards.  After slicing and dicing the front chest for more room, the neckline sat much better, but still curves up. It looks better square on me, I think.

Then I moved to the skirt because the back had diagonal folds of fabric hanging down from the side waist to center back. I assumed this was a sway back alteration, so I tried to alter for that, but was unsuccessful. Then, I just substituted in the shaping of the back of my EvaDress trousers and that took care of the problem, almost. It's hanging much better, but still has a few folds, they are just shallower and don't extend down as far as they did.  The bottom of the bodice is really curved, too

I realized the skirt probably doesn't fit me because I don't have the proper shaped undergarments. And I have to say, I'm okay with that.
1956-girdle
Jeezy-creezy!

The bottom seam of the bodice has an exaggerated curve, which is probably a culprit in the skirt not hanging properly, as well. So my next tasks are to try to redraft the skirt and straighten the waistline, and see if I can get the bodice to both fit and look proportional.

Writing this all out highlights all the problems I'm having with this pattern, and usually I'd be hyper-annoyed by this, but it's actually keeping my interest, so much so that I'm avoiding other things that usually keep my interest3.

1. Note: when using slippery fabrics as the backing for quilts, they tend to, well, slide, and you end up waking up in the middle of the night shivering.
2. Originally slated for a dress I saw in a magazine in 1999 and still have not drafted the pattern for.
3. Sorry, harp. Really, I'll be interested in practicing again someday.
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
sea-green
I finished one couch cushion.

I made a silk bandana with a hand-rolled hem to sleep in to see if it keeps my hair from frizzing. Sadly, it was faster to do this than use either machine.

I'm reworking the buttonholes on my blouse. Again. But this time with better, thicker thread.

I gave the newly-repaired serger a test run in preparation for revamping a sweater. It didn't go so well. :( Further testing is needed in order to determine if problem is of machine origin, or operator error.

In other news, today was...difficile.
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
The Murdoch Mysteries series originally started out life as books written by Maureen Jennings about a detective with the Toronto constabulary in the late 1890s.  It was then made into a TV mini-series, and finally into a regular series.  As with all book/TV/movie adaptations, they diverge into different directions. Jennings is still writing the books - she started the series in 1997, and the show is currently in it's 6th season.

As I said in my goodreads review, I like the book pretty well, and like the forensics aspect of the TV shows.  The best aspect, of course, for me, is all the period costumes and sets.  There are a few good behind-the scenes pictures in a slide show attached to this news article.

My absolute favorite is Inspector Brackenried played by Thomas Craig.  In talking about the details he designs into the clothing, costume designer Alex Reda says about Brackenreid's waistcoats that he doesn't necessarily have them fit perfectly. He makes them tight and some of them double breasted so the buttons tend to strain and he ends up looking more barrel-chested. He's really "average-sized and quite fit" and you can see the difference in the photos. It really suits his blustering character.

murdoch2Normal sized
murdoch1
Super sized!





I've also definitely seen bra lines and not corset lines on one of the characters, which I totally get because wearing a corset all day could be... wearing.  But I'm also annoyed that I notice things like that. And get annoyed about them.
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
The last and most recent project is another skirt based on the skirt Flora wore in "Cold Comfort Farm".

Cold-Comfort-Farm-skirt
I saw something nasty in the woodshed!


I drafted a version of it a few years ago, couldn't find the pattern recently, so drafted what I hope will be a basic A-line skirt block THAT I WILL KEEP AND NOT LOSE, and added a pleat in both the front and center back seams. This is also the skirt I croquised and subsequently realized the 50s skirt I wanted to make actually needed to be this pleated skirt. Alas, I did not have enough fabric for pockets.

Aaaand after cutting it out noticed holes right down the front - hard to notice on a double layer of fabric. I don't know if they've been there the whole time, or developed because the fabric has been undiscovered in my stash for so long. But I fixed them with a few little squares of fusible knit interfacing.

Flora-skirt-holesFlora-skirt-patches


The pleats are handy both for striding towards a camera while looking grim, and riding a bike while looking like a dork (I'm assuming).

Flora skirt


I may need to adjust the block for a swayback, or simply stand up straight.
Flora skirt

And since the fabric has a subtle blue pinstripe, it will be a good match for this sweater:

Blue Beaded Sweater
Someone fire the maid for her ironing skills, pronto


You can once again see more in my Flora skirt flickr set.
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
Here in rainy Portland, you have to seize the opportunity when the weather turns nice. I photographed some projects, rather hurriedly, and a stripey French beret is the first in four - you can head over to ravelry to read more, or you can check out photos of it in flickr.

The second oldest project is the Asian dress I revamped into a jacket.  Prior to this winter, I got a sudden desire to have a quilted lounging jacket to hang around the house in as a change from fleece.

Butterick-8372-front
I may have had this in the back of my mind.

You may recall that I've been deconstructing RTW garments in order to find out how they're made and learn techniques to make my stuff look more professionally made.  Enter the giant, sort-of-cheongsam that would definitely have enough fabric to make a jacket I found while thrifting.  Of course, as usual, I forgot to take before pictures. *sigh*

It was floor length, zipped up the back, and had a placket on the front that closed with frogs. And surprisingly tiny sleeves.  It was shaped with two vertical darts in the back, and two darts in the front of the kind that start down at the waist and curve up to the bust point. I can't remember what they're called (is there a special name for those?), but they're the ones on every '70s Simplicity dress pattern ever.
Simplicity-8498-front
Every. Pattern.

I kept the basic bodice shape, closed up the back seam, and opened the front.  I completely changed the sleeves: I wanted long bell-shaped sleeves and used the instructions found on VintageSewing.info from the book Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Peppin c. 1942 for Bishop Sleeve or Peasant Type Sleeve. (Sadly, that website is no longer being kept up, however you can see it in its entirety by using the Wayback Machine.)

I also wanted it quilted and I thought silk batting would be appropriate.  There are so many types of batting available these days - bamboo, wool, silk, etc.  I also didn't have a bouncy foot for my machine (I never did figure out if it's actually a quilting or darning foot, but it does bounce) to do stippling, so [livejournal.com profile] gorthx graciously allowed me to use her machine.  I can't say I like machine embroidery any more than hand embroidery, but I like the result.  The embroidery also drew the fabric up quite a bit, so the entire thing ended up a bit smaller and the darts now point to ... destinations unknown.  I lined it with a simple cotton from the indoor outside sale (don't ask).
Asian quilted jacket
Every once in while I manage to take a decent photo.
Asian quilted jacket
Lots and lots of random stitching. Lots.
The rest of the photos can be found in my flickr set.

Profile

motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (Default)
motorharp

May 2017

S M T W T F S
 1234 56
78910111213
14151617181920
21222324252627
28293031   

Syndicate

RSS Atom

Most Popular Tags

Style Credit

Expand Cut Tags

No cut tags
Page generated 22 Sep 2017 05:13 pm
Powered by Dreamwidth Studios