motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
A few days ago I was croquising (really, it's a word) some vintage patterns to see what might work for some weird, pink, faille, cotton/rayon? fabric I have, which will be dyed, thank you, as I'm not too much of a pink person. Why do I have this fabric? It was super cheap and I used it to line the back of a quilt I made *mumblecough* years ago1. So I have decent yardage.  One of the dresses I thought about making was Retro Butterick 6632.

Butterick-Retro-6632

After croquising it, I realized I had other fabric in my stash that would work really well for this (donated *mumblecough* years ago by my sis2, and remembered and easily accessed now that I'm all organized).
navy-blue-ecru-pinstripe-small

I've been muslining this dress and it is... not progressing smoothly. Ahem. I made a petite adjustment above the waist in the back, which helped the back fit perfectly, but then the front pulled to the back, so I adjusted the front, too, which sort of made it fit really well, but threw off the proportions of the dress bodice and it didn't look so great anymore. But the waist seam is actually at my waist.

And the square neckline is not square, it curves upwards.  After slicing and dicing the front chest for more room, the neckline sat much better, but still curves up. It looks better square on me, I think.

Then I moved to the skirt because the back had diagonal folds of fabric hanging down from the side waist to center back. I assumed this was a sway back alteration, so I tried to alter for that, but was unsuccessful. Then, I just substituted in the shaping of the back of my EvaDress trousers and that took care of the problem, almost. It's hanging much better, but still has a few folds, they are just shallower and don't extend down as far as they did.  The bottom of the bodice is really curved, too

I realized the skirt probably doesn't fit me because I don't have the proper shaped undergarments. And I have to say, I'm okay with that.
1956-girdle
Jeezy-creezy!

The bottom seam of the bodice has an exaggerated curve, which is probably a culprit in the skirt not hanging properly, as well. So my next tasks are to try to redraft the skirt and straighten the waistline, and see if I can get the bodice to both fit and look proportional.

Writing this all out highlights all the problems I'm having with this pattern, and usually I'd be hyper-annoyed by this, but it's actually keeping my interest, so much so that I'm avoiding other things that usually keep my interest3.

1. Note: when using slippery fabrics as the backing for quilts, they tend to, well, slide, and you end up waking up in the middle of the night shivering.
2. Originally slated for a dress I saw in a magazine in 1999 and still have not drafted the pattern for.
3. Sorry, harp. Really, I'll be interested in practicing again someday.
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
Brrr! Back to the cold. This is why I was glad I frantically took pictures when it was sunny.  Well, sort of glad. These trousers really don't look like what I thought. Not quite as flattering, really. This is why I take photos - the camera doesn't lie.  Maybe I could have been tipped off by the overalls I made from the same pattern that also make me look short and wide - the pattern being EvaDress T30-1936 (which doesn't seem to be available anymore). However, they are comfy.

T30-1930-EvaDress
Tall, leggy models*



1936-trousers-front
Non-tall, non-leggy model*

They are a lovely wool flannel from Mill End, and hey, guess what! Wool flannel stretches.  The other pants I made out of sturdy cotton twill were too short, so I added a couple inches to the hem this time, only to cut them right back off after the material stretched. I made the bound buttonholes this time and like them WAY better than machine made.

1936-trousers-side
Do these classify as Oxford Bags?*

I also had to interface the waistband with fusible tailoring hair canvas in order to hold the weight of the pants + lining. Did I mention these are lined? Buttery soft hang-loose lining. So, like I said, comfy.

Oh, has anyone figured out how to get the $@#*^ ridge line of a tucked-in shirt to go away?

*Livejournal seems to not allow clicking on photos to embiggen anymore, so you can right click and choose "View Picture" and see a bigger version.

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