motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
The length of the shoulder seam is also a factor in the shirt rising when I raise my arms.  I'm now not confident the armscye shape with change that.

Also, I had to clip the bodice armhole to get the sleeve to go in, else I would have had to ease it like crazy.  And "not easing" was the whole point of this exercise.  I even walked the seams first, and everything fit on the paper pattern pieces!

The one-size-smaller 38 certainly hangs better on me.
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
So, now we know why Ichabod will be staying in period clothing and where he gets them.  So clever and not just a little hilarious.

And now...
I'm currently working on finishing up the seventh item1 in my "sew one piece of clothing a week" collection... from October.  Things keep getting slipped into the queue as they have a higher priority.  Like resewing the buttons on my pants again because I'm either losing weight or they are stretching.

And putting gussets in the underarm seam of the sixth item - a basic short-sleeved button-up blouse1 - after completely finishing it, because it was one of those situations where the entire shirt comes up when you lift your arms.  Which is really the point of this post.

After reading Kathleen Fasanella's post about how sleeve cap ease is bogus and what a sleeve cap should look like to follow the actual shape of a person, I wanted to try drafting something like that on the next shirt I made to avoid the shirt-rising problem.

The seventh item is indeed a basic long-sleeved button-up blouse from the same pattern as the short-sleeved.  I took the gusset from the short-sleeved and marked the points where it starts and stops on the arm scye. It makes the bottom of the arm scye over 2" (5cm) higher! And it's not exactly parallel to the floor. It slopes slightly down toward the front.  Not quite as much as some of the pictures in the tailoring forums:armhole-cutter-and-tailor-5-5xBut like this:armhole

I can understand shaping the armhole opening, but the sleeve is beyond my understanding at this point.  Measuring my arm around the deltoids and comparing it to the pattern measurement makes me think I need to add about two inches more in width? Which sort of could correspond to this picture?


And then there are these which are lesser priority, but frustrating me to think about.

I had to cut myself out of my black and white skirt. Have you ever been able to un-jam an invisible zipper? And it really isn't as full as I originally wanted, so I want to add gores and a new zipper. Which means taking off the bottom black band and making a new one of those.  And I could probably line it this time instead of underlining it. Basically, I would like to make an entirely new skirt. Urg.

The black dress I made from a pattern I thought fit me is exceptionally tight because the waist is too high and I should have lined it, not interlined it.  The corduroy and rayon lining really need to move independently.  Which means, basically, making a whole new dress.  And taking the collar off because it looks a little too... churchy?  Wednesday Addams?

1 From fabric bought for me while visiting home. :)
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
The Murdoch Mysteries series originally started out life as books written by Maureen Jennings about a detective with the Toronto constabulary in the late 1890s.  It was then made into a TV mini-series, and finally into a regular series.  As with all book/TV/movie adaptations, they diverge into different directions. Jennings is still writing the books - she started the series in 1997, and the show is currently in it's 6th season.

As I said in my goodreads review, I like the book pretty well, and like the forensics aspect of the TV shows.  The best aspect, of course, for me, is all the period costumes and sets.  There are a few good behind-the scenes pictures in a slide show attached to this news article.

My absolute favorite is Inspector Brackenried played by Thomas Craig.  In talking about the details he designs into the clothing, costume designer Alex Reda says about Brackenreid's waistcoats that he doesn't necessarily have them fit perfectly. He makes them tight and some of them double breasted so the buttons tend to strain and he ends up looking more barrel-chested. He's really "average-sized and quite fit" and you can see the difference in the photos. It really suits his blustering character.

murdoch2Normal sized
Super sized!

I've also definitely seen bra lines and not corset lines on one of the characters, which I totally get because wearing a corset all day could be... wearing.  But I'm also annoyed that I notice things like that. And get annoyed about them.
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
Brrr! Back to the cold. This is why I was glad I frantically took pictures when it was sunny.  Well, sort of glad. These trousers really don't look like what I thought. Not quite as flattering, really. This is why I take photos - the camera doesn't lie.  Maybe I could have been tipped off by the overalls I made from the same pattern that also make me look short and wide - the pattern being EvaDress T30-1936 (which doesn't seem to be available anymore). However, they are comfy.

Tall, leggy models*

Non-tall, non-leggy model*

They are a lovely wool flannel from Mill End, and hey, guess what! Wool flannel stretches.  The other pants I made out of sturdy cotton twill were too short, so I added a couple inches to the hem this time, only to cut them right back off after the material stretched. I made the bound buttonholes this time and like them WAY better than machine made.

Do these classify as Oxford Bags?*

I also had to interface the waistband with fusible tailoring hair canvas in order to hold the weight of the pants + lining. Did I mention these are lined? Buttery soft hang-loose lining. So, like I said, comfy.

Oh, has anyone figured out how to get the $@#*^ ridge line of a tucked-in shirt to go away?

*Livejournal seems to not allow clicking on photos to embiggen anymore, so you can right click and choose "View Picture" and see a bigger version.


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