motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
The length of the shoulder seam is also a factor in the shirt rising when I raise my arms.  I'm now not confident the armscye shape with change that.

Also, I had to clip the bodice armhole to get the sleeve to go in, else I would have had to ease it like crazy.  And "not easing" was the whole point of this exercise.  I even walked the seams first, and everything fit on the paper pattern pieces!

The one-size-smaller 38 certainly hangs better on me.
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
So, now we know why Ichabod will be staying in period clothing and where he gets them.  So clever and not just a little hilarious.

And now...
I'm currently working on finishing up the seventh item1 in my "sew one piece of clothing a week" collection... from October.  Things keep getting slipped into the queue as they have a higher priority.  Like resewing the buttons on my pants again because I'm either losing weight or they are stretching.

And putting gussets in the underarm seam of the sixth item - a basic short-sleeved button-up blouse1 - after completely finishing it, because it was one of those situations where the entire shirt comes up when you lift your arms.  Which is really the point of this post.

After reading Kathleen Fasanella's post about how sleeve cap ease is bogus and what a sleeve cap should look like to follow the actual shape of a person, I wanted to try drafting something like that on the next shirt I made to avoid the shirt-rising problem.

The seventh item is indeed a basic long-sleeved button-up blouse from the same pattern as the short-sleeved.  I took the gusset from the short-sleeved and marked the points where it starts and stops on the arm scye. It makes the bottom of the arm scye over 2" (5cm) higher! And it's not exactly parallel to the floor. It slopes slightly down toward the front.  Not quite as much as some of the pictures in the tailoring forums:armhole-cutter-and-tailor-5-5xBut like this:armhole

I can understand shaping the armhole opening, but the sleeve is beyond my understanding at this point.  Measuring my arm around the deltoids and comparing it to the pattern measurement makes me think I need to add about two inches more in width? Which sort of could correspond to this picture?


And then there are these which are lesser priority, but frustrating me to think about.

I had to cut myself out of my black and white skirt. Have you ever been able to un-jam an invisible zipper? And it really isn't as full as I originally wanted, so I want to add gores and a new zipper. Which means taking off the bottom black band and making a new one of those.  And I could probably line it this time instead of underlining it. Basically, I would like to make an entirely new skirt. Urg.

The black dress I made from a pattern I thought fit me is exceptionally tight because the waist is too high and I should have lined it, not interlined it.  The corduroy and rayon lining really need to move independently.  Which means, basically, making a whole new dress.  And taking the collar off because it looks a little too... churchy?  Wednesday Addams?

1 From fabric bought for me while visiting home. :)
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
I can't tell you how glad I am this is done.  I love it!  I've been working on it pretty steadily even though I: 1) hate cables and 2) had many other things to do.  And of course, just as I finished, the weather got warmer.

The pattern I used was a previous cardigan I picked up at a thrift store, debating all the while because it was "expensive" for a thrift store sweater, which I then wore out because I loved it so much.  It was originally Banana Republic that someone had felted a little bit, and I added the front button band and neckline bow from the Tri-Stitch Cable Sweater in "A Stitch In Time" by Susan Crawford.

You can see a teensy bit of the skirt I recently made (and love, too!) in the pic, too.
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
These fabrics:
Silk chiffon and charmeuse

Make this top:
Sea green blouse 3Q

I finished this Simplicity 1891 blouse a while ago, but with a cotton broadcloth underlining that was way too stiff. I decided to reline it with silk charmeuse, since I was able to find the right color. However, that meant trying to take apart something made from silk chiffon, hand basting the shifty layers together, and sewing it back up on the (hopefully) original stitching lines. That were shifting all over the place. Then there were the buttonholes. Ugh. I hand stitched them with regular thread, and that didn't work. I tried one on the machine, and that didn't work either. Then I hand stitched them with embroidery thread and that worked, although I hope no one ever examines them up close.

Sea green blouse back detail

And with that, I think my spring collection from 2010 is finally done. Yay, me?


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