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Where to find large tracing paper
16 Jan 2019 08:12 amAnother sewing bookmark! Large tracing paper is hard to find, but oh-so-handy.
That's what I called the movie when I was talking to my coworker about it and couldn't remember the actual title, which is "Avengers: Infinity War".
( cut for spoilers )
( cut for spoilers )
倒す - Direct translation means "kill", however I'm guessing it means "press". With an iron.
表 - Direct translation is "table", but means "right side of the fabric".
バイアス - "bias" which is spelled with katakana characters.
バイアス布 - "bias cloth" - would this be specifically "bias tape"?
接着テープ - "adhesive tape". This is double sided tape used to baste things together? Possibly like Dritz Wash Away Wonder tape? I can't figure out from the amazon.jp page if 接着テープ washes out. Or maybe it is just plain sewing and craft tape that doesn't wash out. I couldn't imagine you'd want to have the tape stay in your garment. Unless it's also a stabilizer. Uuurgh.
表 - right side of fabric / main fabric
裏 - wrong side of fabric / lining
前 - front
側 - side, edge
後ろ - back
肩線 - shoulder line
肩 - shoulder
線 - line
布目 - cloth (with “of” means grainline?)
右 - right (directional)
左 - left
ヨーク - yoke
ダーツ - dart
ダーツ 止り - dart stop
下 - lower
上 - upper
身頃 - body
と突き合わせる - match with
中心 - center
裾 - hem
スリット止り - slit stops
スリット - slit
止り - stop
袖口 - cuff
別布 - Separate cloth
薄手 - thin
木綿 - cotton
バイアス - bias
袖ぐり用 - for sleeveless
袖 - sleeve
袖山の - sleeve cap (sodoyama, sleeve mountain)
用 - for
衿 - neckline/collar
縫 - sew
縫い - sewing?
で - so, in, on
止め - iron or press flat (finishing blow)
つけ - attaching
に - at/into/to/in/on
を - to
ベルト - belt
芯 - core? Interfacing
脇 - side, side seam
見返し - looking backwards/inside the cover
中表 - right sides together / middle table
表 - Direct translation is "table", but means "right side of the fabric".
バイアス - "bias" which is spelled with katakana characters.
バイアス布 - "bias cloth" - would this be specifically "bias tape"?
接着テープ - "adhesive tape". This is double sided tape used to baste things together? Possibly like Dritz Wash Away Wonder tape? I can't figure out from the amazon.jp page if 接着テープ washes out. Or maybe it is just plain sewing and craft tape that doesn't wash out. I couldn't imagine you'd want to have the tape stay in your garment. Unless it's also a stabilizer. Uuurgh.
表 - right side of fabric / main fabric
裏 - wrong side of fabric / lining
前 - front
側 - side, edge
後ろ - back
肩線 - shoulder line
肩 - shoulder
線 - line
布目 - cloth (with “of” means grainline?)
右 - right (directional)
左 - left
ヨーク - yoke
ダーツ - dart
ダーツ 止り - dart stop
下 - lower
上 - upper
身頃 - body
と突き合わせる - match with
中心 - center
裾 - hem
スリット止り - slit stops
スリット - slit
止り - stop
袖口 - cuff
別布 - Separate cloth
薄手 - thin
木綿 - cotton
バイアス - bias
袖ぐり用 - for sleeveless
袖 - sleeve
袖山の - sleeve cap (sodoyama, sleeve mountain)
用 - for
衿 - neckline/collar
縫 - sew
縫い - sewing?
で - so, in, on
止め - iron or press flat (finishing blow)
つけ - attaching
に - at/into/to/in/on
を - to
ベルト - belt
芯 - core? Interfacing
脇 - side, side seam
見返し - looking backwards/inside the cover
中表 - right sides together / middle table
Wax your fabric yourself
19 Nov 2018 05:42 pmBookmarking For a Rainy Day on the Rolling in Cloth blog with waxed taffeta jacket and link to how they waxed the fabric.
Hill Walk 9
4 Nov 2018 07:39 amWe walked almost 5 miles, as opposed to the 3.75 indicated. Not sure how that happened. We started in Willamette Park, which I didn't even know existed, and walked west up through neighborhoods, parks, and a community garden. The fall colors were beautiful and it was lovely to discover these hidden gems in between two major roads and an interstate.
SW Miles Place is at the southern end of Willamette Park and looked to me like a street full of old-Portland holdouts - lots of interesting house additions and neat junk in yards, with a brand new giant 4-story house? building? squeezed in on the corner. Many houses here were originally houseboats that were further upriver and set adrift in floods in the 1890. They were collected by the owners downstream and tied to oak trees on the western bank. They squatted for a few years, then bought their land from Ladd Estate Company, of Ladd's Addition fame1. One house has an oak tree about this close || to the side of it.
Despite the great views, I took no pictures this time, just enjoyed the walk.
1 I recently learned that Ladd's Addition was originally meant to be an all-white neighborhood, unfortunately. I highly recommend listening to this talk by Walida Imarisha about "Why aren’t there more Black people in Oregon?" She travels around Oregon to small towns and gives this talk. I learned a lot.
SW Miles Place is at the southern end of Willamette Park and looked to me like a street full of old-Portland holdouts - lots of interesting house additions and neat junk in yards, with a brand new giant 4-story house? building? squeezed in on the corner. Many houses here were originally houseboats that were further upriver and set adrift in floods in the 1890. They were collected by the owners downstream and tied to oak trees on the western bank. They squatted for a few years, then bought their land from Ladd Estate Company, of Ladd's Addition fame1. One house has an oak tree about this close || to the side of it.
Despite the great views, I took no pictures this time, just enjoyed the walk.
1 I recently learned that Ladd's Addition was originally meant to be an all-white neighborhood, unfortunately. I highly recommend listening to this talk by Walida Imarisha about "Why aren’t there more Black people in Oregon?" She travels around Oregon to small towns and gives this talk. I learned a lot.
Book-marking again from the internet archives. This is Kazz the Spazz's version of the whack-a-mole dress from Pattern Magic 3. Good construction notes. I want this dress!
Movie: A Simple Favor
16 Oct 2018 08:06 amI saw this a few weeks ago. I think the director tried to throw everything possible in here. It's a raunchy comedy noir thriller cozy mystery. Really. And it kept me guessing up to the end.
I don't know if this is a reflection of how hard it is for women not to get typecast in Hollywood, but I forgot that Blake Lively is a good actress.
I don't know if this is a reflection of how hard it is for women not to get typecast in Hollywood, but I forgot that Blake Lively is a good actress.
Crazy Rich Asians
14 Oct 2018 07:45 amI don't normally go out of my way to see romantic comedies, but I did for this one. Representation matters.
The story was pretty straight-forward, the "crazy rich" part was jaw-dropping. Do things like that really exist? Like, really? I mean, that wedding. Everything was amazingly gorgeous.
Michelle Yeoh was fantastic and I may be a new fan of Awkwafina.
The story was pretty straight-forward, the "crazy rich" part was jaw-dropping. Do things like that really exist? Like, really? I mean, that wedding. Everything was amazingly gorgeous.
Michelle Yeoh was fantastic and I may be a new fan of Awkwafina.
Instead of looking for these buried in my twitter feed every time I want to make it, bookmarking here.
The original posts are gone, so archive.org to the rescue!
Leftover bonito and leftover kombu.
The original posts are gone, so archive.org to the rescue!
Leftover bonito and leftover kombu.
Hill Walk 8
7 Oct 2018 08:13 pmThis was around Lair Hill - cute Victorians houses in a small neighborhood - and OHSU. I was already uncomfortably familiar with OHSU, so I wasn't too enthusiastic about too much on the campus, but the longest, covered climate controlled walkway in the world had some pretty fantastic views:
Homestead was another cute neighborhood, despite the designer platting it in a grid with no regard to the topology. Topology? Topography. Haha, topology would be a pretty funny foundation for a neighborhood.
Homestead was another cute neighborhood, despite the designer platting it in a grid with no regard to the topology. Topology? Topography. Haha, topology would be a pretty funny foundation for a neighborhood.
My last shoemaking class!
1 Oct 2018 04:56 pmWell, hopefully not forever. I like learning! This class was the Cement Construction where you actually assemble the shoes. And I did! Here they are:
Already creased from being worn :)
The class was three days. The first day was making the insole, toe caps, and heel counters. The second day was lasting the liner, gluing in the toe cap and heel counter, then lasting the upper. The third day was shaping the sole and gluing that on to make a finished shoe. All of the glue used on the upper was wood glue. It really works! The only thing cemented on is the sole.
I didn't really take photos while I was working because I didn't think of it until they were almost done, and shoemaking is a lot of work.
The inside liner is vegetable tanned leather, and the outside is chrome tanned. I definitely like working with vegetable tanned. It's much more pliable and easy to deal with.
There's a lot of wetting and hammering that goes into getting the leather to do what you want. And a lot of stapling to make things stay in place. And a lot of removing staples. My hands were wrecked at the end of each day to the point I couldn't even hold a book up to read.
I've worn them around a bit and they're pretty comfortable. I'm already planning what changes I would make next time - tightening up the heel, giving my big toenails a little more room, making something with flowers on it. :)
I'm going to go back in a week and get some laces that match the stitching on the uppers.
Already creased from being worn :)
The class was three days. The first day was making the insole, toe caps, and heel counters. The second day was lasting the liner, gluing in the toe cap and heel counter, then lasting the upper. The third day was shaping the sole and gluing that on to make a finished shoe. All of the glue used on the upper was wood glue. It really works! The only thing cemented on is the sole.
I didn't really take photos while I was working because I didn't think of it until they were almost done, and shoemaking is a lot of work.
The inside liner is vegetable tanned leather, and the outside is chrome tanned. I definitely like working with vegetable tanned. It's much more pliable and easy to deal with.
There's a lot of wetting and hammering that goes into getting the leather to do what you want. And a lot of stapling to make things stay in place. And a lot of removing staples. My hands were wrecked at the end of each day to the point I couldn't even hold a book up to read.
I've worn them around a bit and they're pretty comfortable. I'm already planning what changes I would make next time - tightening up the heel, giving my big toenails a little more room, making something with flowers on it. :)
I'm going to go back in a week and get some laces that match the stitching on the uppers.
Baa-ble Socks
17 Aug 2018 04:28 pmI finished these back in June and finally got around to taking decent photos today. Or photo.
Taking photos is not my favorite thing, but it did get me to finally sweep my floor and clean my coffee table. So, yay.
And these are also over on ravelry.
And these are also over on ravelry.
Vintage pattern scoooooore!
10 Jul 2018 08:18 amMy cousin was cleaning out her vintage pattern collection and sent them to me!
Click for very large photos
Click for very large photos
Plus some toy sailboat instructions. I think I said "Oh my gosh" at each pattern. There are some stunners in here. There is what I thought was a beautiful dress, but turns out it's "just" a housedress.
There are the usual suspects - Simplicity, McCall, Vogue, Butterick, and the lesser known Advance, DuBarry, Hollywood, Marion Martin, and newspaper mail-order. But also some I'd never heard of - Clotilde and Superior. Clotilde patterns come in a delightful glassine envelope. Superior patterns definitely look superior!
Wow!
Wow.
There are the usual suspects - Simplicity, McCall, Vogue, Butterick, and the lesser known Advance, DuBarry, Hollywood, Marion Martin, and newspaper mail-order. But also some I'd never heard of - Clotilde and Superior. Clotilde patterns come in a delightful glassine envelope. Superior patterns definitely look superior!
Wow!
Wow.
Hill Walk 5
8 Jul 2018 07:46 amYesterday provided amazing weather for a hike through another rich part of town.
Fun things I learned:
I felt amazing afterward! Like, a little euphoric. I need more hiking in the sun, is what I learned!
The plots of land in Portland Heights originally sold for $250 - no one wanted them because of the mudslides. When the trestle cable car was built (Up 1000ft with a 20% grade! Aaaaah! Over a ravine! Aaaah!), the price jumped to $10k within 30 years.
The library on the PSU campus (Millar) was built in 1968 with a curved front to accommodate an 1890s copper beech tree, which has edible nuts!
The Simon Benson house was moved to the PSU campus in the late 1990s and Benson was a beloved philanthropist who was responsible for the Benson Bubblers (public water fountains) in 1912 to provide an alternative for citizens who may visit a bar to have a drink. There are a lot of recreation areas that are part of his legacy.
And, ugh!, the diagonal paths through the park blocks were put in in 1905 to discourage local kids from playing baseball there. Ugh! Grownups.
Not a fun thing - the Ladd mansion carriage house has been torn down.
Alexander Kerr, who invented the Kerr Economy Canning Jar, lived downtown. After his wife Albertina died in childbirth, he donated his his house to a society that sheltered abandoned children. The Albertina Kerr Centers now help emotionally disturbed children and care for teens and adults with developmental disabilities
Goose Hollow used to have a pond with actual geese in it in the 1800s.
At the end of SW Mill Street, the stairs up to SW Vista are gone, along with the building they used to be next to. We had to turn around and go back down the 153 steps and back track a little. Also not fun. But, exercise!
Fire is required for Sequoia cones to open and release their seeds.
One of the houses on the walk was just ridiculous and beautiful - built in 1934 for the Bowles, designed by A. E. Doyle whom they sent to Italy "to soak in its architectural ambiance", it cost $750,000 (which translates to $7.5M today) to build, has gold and silver leafed walls, a fur vault, and sterling silver water fixtures. It's on the National Register of Historic Places which means it has to be open at least one day a year to the public. Future plans!
Fun things I learned:
I felt amazing afterward! Like, a little euphoric. I need more hiking in the sun, is what I learned!
The plots of land in Portland Heights originally sold for $250 - no one wanted them because of the mudslides. When the trestle cable car was built (Up 1000ft with a 20% grade! Aaaaah! Over a ravine! Aaaah!), the price jumped to $10k within 30 years.
The library on the PSU campus (Millar) was built in 1968 with a curved front to accommodate an 1890s copper beech tree, which has edible nuts!
The Simon Benson house was moved to the PSU campus in the late 1990s and Benson was a beloved philanthropist who was responsible for the Benson Bubblers (public water fountains) in 1912 to provide an alternative for citizens who may visit a bar to have a drink. There are a lot of recreation areas that are part of his legacy.
And, ugh!, the diagonal paths through the park blocks were put in in 1905 to discourage local kids from playing baseball there. Ugh! Grownups.
Not a fun thing - the Ladd mansion carriage house has been torn down.
Alexander Kerr, who invented the Kerr Economy Canning Jar, lived downtown. After his wife Albertina died in childbirth, he donated his his house to a society that sheltered abandoned children. The Albertina Kerr Centers now help emotionally disturbed children and care for teens and adults with developmental disabilities
Goose Hollow used to have a pond with actual geese in it in the 1800s.
At the end of SW Mill Street, the stairs up to SW Vista are gone, along with the building they used to be next to. We had to turn around and go back down the 153 steps and back track a little. Also not fun. But, exercise!
Fire is required for Sequoia cones to open and release their seeds.
One of the houses on the walk was just ridiculous and beautiful - built in 1934 for the Bowles, designed by A. E. Doyle whom they sent to Italy "to soak in its architectural ambiance", it cost $750,000 (which translates to $7.5M today) to build, has gold and silver leafed walls, a fur vault, and sterling silver water fixtures. It's on the National Register of Historic Places which means it has to be open at least one day a year to the public. Future plans!
Circle Dress part 1
9 Jun 2018 07:30 pmI interfaced the entire front bodice of my circle dress based on the example dress I deconstructed. I found that Pellon 865F Bi-Stretch Lite was closest in look and feeling to the interfacing in the RTW dress.
Also, it did not have the normal sewing industry interfacing instructions - hold the iron on one area for 10-15 seconds. They said to glide the iron across the surface. And I had just read Fashion Incubator's "How to apply interfacing", in which Kathleen Fasanella said basically the same thing, but much more in depth. I used to hate fusing interfacing because it took so long! Just ironing it on is such a relief.
After I figure out whether I need stabilizers on my back darts, I intend to construct the dress using a combination of what I learned from the RTW dress and, again on Fashion Incubator, articles about "A better way to sew linings and facings" part 1 and part 2.
The article "Interfacing, 10 tips" has good info, too.
I sewed the circle dart and the CF seam. The circle seams are 1/4" and the CF seam is 3/8". Sewing a curved seam with 1/4" SAs is so amazingly easy. I did not have to clip anything and it went together so smoothly. SO SMOOTHLY.
Oh, and I may need to trim the back darts?
Also, it did not have the normal sewing industry interfacing instructions - hold the iron on one area for 10-15 seconds. They said to glide the iron across the surface. And I had just read Fashion Incubator's "How to apply interfacing", in which Kathleen Fasanella said basically the same thing, but much more in depth. I used to hate fusing interfacing because it took so long! Just ironing it on is such a relief.
After I figure out whether I need stabilizers on my back darts, I intend to construct the dress using a combination of what I learned from the RTW dress and, again on Fashion Incubator, articles about "A better way to sew linings and facings" part 1 and part 2.
The article "Interfacing, 10 tips" has good info, too.
I sewed the circle dart and the CF seam. The circle seams are 1/4" and the CF seam is 3/8". Sewing a curved seam with 1/4" SAs is so amazingly easy. I did not have to clip anything and it went together so smoothly. SO SMOOTHLY.
Oh, and I may need to trim the back darts?
Updating old entries
23 May 2018 08:05 amAfter trying to find a sewing entry I made in... 2015? I'm looking for it in my .csv files downloaded from lj and not transferred to dreamwidth. So there may be some weird old entries popping up in your reading list. And since dreamwidth messes up formatting when using a cut, I'm really, really sorry.
ETA: 2012.
ETA: 2012.
Pattern Magic Bunka Sloper
7 May 2018 05:50 pmFrom Wikipedia: "A sloper pattern (home sewing) or block pattern (industrial production) is a custom-fitted, basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be developed."
I've been working on a Bunka-style sloper since December. The Bunka sloper is used in the Bunka Fashion College in Japan, as well as the book series "Pattern Magic" by 1 when I first came across it. People have made some pretty interesting garments from it. I wanted to try, too!
Then I found out about Mrs. Stylebook - a fashion mag for older women that had the patterns in it, and that you drafted from that same sloper! Whoa! Why can't there be a periodical in America catering to older, fashionable, sewing people?
I used the bodice sloper in the back of Pattern Magic to try the "Inserting a circular design line"2. It worked, but did not fit me at all. Enter the Bunka Fashion Series Garment Design Textbook 1 "Fundamentals of Garment Design" put out by the Bunka Fashion College, as well as a sudden deceleration in my progress forward. Wow. This is not a book for beginners.
I drafted a sloper based on my measurements which did not fit. I had no idea how to fix it based on the fitting instructions as they were not detailed enough for me - I need to know specific points on the body where the seams and darts should end. For example, is the wrist point above, on, or below the wrist bone?
So I gave up on the instructions and just adjusted things. With the help of my sister and lots of photographs, I finally got something that I think fits.
I scanned my patterns and loaded them into Inkscape, then traced them with a tool I don't know the name of. It's the one you can make the lines bendy with.
There are three lines:
red - the stock Bunka sloper
blue - the sloper I drafted with my measurements
black - the final adjusted sloper
Square shoulders, anyone?
The Fundamentals book does mention the Bunka sloper is drafted based on average measurements of women in their 20s and that older bodies are shaped differently. Yes, thanks.
The next step is to get the line drawing of my final sloper in a format that will print out actual size across multiple pages. I found a spot-on tutorial on creating tiled sewing patterns on a blog called Grow Your Own Clothes. Missing instructions: Move the printing stuff to the Page Area, then choose Edit -> Resize Page to Selection.
1. as well as the Drape Drape series by another Bunka Fashion College graduate, except they have premade patterns - there's no drafting.
2. This is a particularly cool example.
I've been working on a Bunka-style sloper since December. The Bunka sloper is used in the Bunka Fashion College in Japan, as well as the book series "Pattern Magic" by 1 when I first came across it. People have made some pretty interesting garments from it. I wanted to try, too!
Then I found out about Mrs. Stylebook - a fashion mag for older women that had the patterns in it, and that you drafted from that same sloper! Whoa! Why can't there be a periodical in America catering to older, fashionable, sewing people?
I used the bodice sloper in the back of Pattern Magic to try the "Inserting a circular design line"2. It worked, but did not fit me at all. Enter the Bunka Fashion Series Garment Design Textbook 1 "Fundamentals of Garment Design" put out by the Bunka Fashion College, as well as a sudden deceleration in my progress forward. Wow. This is not a book for beginners.
I drafted a sloper based on my measurements which did not fit. I had no idea how to fix it based on the fitting instructions as they were not detailed enough for me - I need to know specific points on the body where the seams and darts should end. For example, is the wrist point above, on, or below the wrist bone?
So I gave up on the instructions and just adjusted things. With the help of my sister and lots of photographs, I finally got something that I think fits.
I scanned my patterns and loaded them into Inkscape, then traced them with a tool I don't know the name of. It's the one you can make the lines bendy with.
There are three lines:
red - the stock Bunka sloper
blue - the sloper I drafted with my measurements
black - the final adjusted sloper
Square shoulders, anyone?
The Fundamentals book does mention the Bunka sloper is drafted based on average measurements of women in their 20s and that older bodies are shaped differently. Yes, thanks.
The next step is to get the line drawing of my final sloper in a format that will print out actual size across multiple pages. I found a spot-on tutorial on creating tiled sewing patterns on a blog called Grow Your Own Clothes. Missing instructions: Move the printing stuff to the Page Area, then choose Edit -> Resize Page to Selection.
1. as well as the Drape Drape series by another Bunka Fashion College graduate, except they have premade patterns - there's no drafting.
2. This is a particularly cool example.
