motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (Default)





So there's blackwork embroidery, which is black floss on a white background, and there is whitework, which is white floss on a white background, but what is embroidery with black floss on a black background called?

Leaf motif embroidered with black floss on black gabardine
Click to make bigger!

I've had this wool gabardine military jacket since college. I really like it. It fits me pretty well through the shoulders - a difficult thing to find in clothing I haven't made myself. But the poor thing got holes in it.

Two flowers embroidered with black floss on black gabardine

And the holes got more noticeable after I dyed it1, so I thought embroidering flowers over the holes would be cool. And since I prefer being surreptitious, black floss was the obvious color choice.

Two flowers embroidered with black floss on black gabardine

This required a lot of lighting and magnification. And gabardine is really tightly woven, so getting the needle through it sometimes required pliers. It took a couple months of embroidering 15 minutes every day, and sometimes that was just to set everything up2.

Also, chain stitching? Ugh.

I used patterns from Zakka Embroidery by Yumiko Higuchi, and I love the way it turned out!


1. For real this time, with dye that dyes wool, not Rit, my only option back then, which left it a marbled purply burgundy.
2. Hooping a tailored jacket is ... challenging. I had to use clamps to force the hoop shut on occasion. It's exciting when they pop off!
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (Default)
I see a lot of books come in through work with titles like "Unexpected Soups" and "Unexpected Houseplants" or "Unexpected Knitting" and always laugh a little - like, did you not see that coming? You have to get ingredients or supplies.

I kind of get it now.

There's a knitter I follow (on ravelry) who not only knits sweaters at an impressive rate, but has embroidered some of them beautifully. One of the artists she got inspired by is Yumiko Higuchi who has written a few embroidery books, and work happened to have "Zakka Embroidery" available.

I looked through it and took it home to see if I would be inspired.

After some unplanned and random digging, I found the leftover floss from my western shirt, embroidery hoops, researched needles to see if I had the right ones (sort of), got out linen (her fabric of choice) from my stash, and started. Whoa. Unexpected.

The next morning, while running errands, I realized I was (unexpectedly) close to a store that was open that had embroidery needles, so ran in and got those. They worked much better.

After a few hours I had this:

Yellow orange embroidry on black linen

And then I ran out of thread. And of course, this is the one color I had that was not DMC floss. But it had the equivalent color number on it! Off to JoAnns, the only store open late in the area that had embroidery floss.*

But would the color match?

I've embroidered before... 7 years ago. Pulling up those memories was  s l o w. There were stitches I made after which I said, "Oh right!" and then, "Not fixing it!"

I finished it up that night at, I think, 10:30. Despite the late hour, I noticed I was stitching much faster that when I started. Yay!

Then I thought, "What am I going to do with this?", figured out this little bit of embroidery would fit on the sleep mask pattern in the same book, and sewed it the next day.

Yellow orange embroidry on black linen sleep mask
I can't notice any color difference, can you?

So yeah, unexpected embroidery.

*One store is only open on Tuesdays for 5 hours?

motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
sea-green
I finished one couch cushion.

I made a silk bandana with a hand-rolled hem to sleep in to see if it keeps my hair from frizzing. Sadly, it was faster to do this than use either machine.

I'm reworking the buttonholes on my blouse. Again. But this time with better, thicker thread.

I gave the newly-repaired serger a test run in preparation for revamping a sweater. It didn't go so well. :( Further testing is needed in order to determine if problem is of machine origin, or operator error.

In other news, today was...difficile.
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (bookworm)
Here in rainy Portland, you have to seize the opportunity when the weather turns nice. I photographed some projects, rather hurriedly, and a stripey French beret is the first in four - you can head over to ravelry to read more, or you can check out photos of it in flickr.

The second oldest project is the Asian dress I revamped into a jacket.  Prior to this winter, I got a sudden desire to have a quilted lounging jacket to hang around the house in as a change from fleece.

Butterick-8372-front
I may have had this in the back of my mind.

You may recall that I've been deconstructing RTW garments in order to find out how they're made and learn techniques to make my stuff look more professionally made.  Enter the giant, sort-of-cheongsam that would definitely have enough fabric to make a jacket I found while thrifting.  Of course, as usual, I forgot to take before pictures. *sigh*

It was floor length, zipped up the back, and had a placket on the front that closed with frogs. And surprisingly tiny sleeves.  It was shaped with two vertical darts in the back, and two darts in the front of the kind that start down at the waist and curve up to the bust point. I can't remember what they're called (is there a special name for those?), but they're the ones on every '70s Simplicity dress pattern ever.
Simplicity-8498-front
Every. Pattern.

I kept the basic bodice shape, closed up the back seam, and opened the front.  I completely changed the sleeves: I wanted long bell-shaped sleeves and used the instructions found on VintageSewing.info from the book Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Peppin c. 1942 for Bishop Sleeve or Peasant Type Sleeve. (Sadly, that website is no longer being kept up, however you can see it in its entirety by using the Wayback Machine.)

I also wanted it quilted and I thought silk batting would be appropriate.  There are so many types of batting available these days - bamboo, wool, silk, etc.  I also didn't have a bouncy foot for my machine (I never did figure out if it's actually a quilting or darning foot, but it does bounce) to do stippling, so [livejournal.com profile] gorthx graciously allowed me to use her machine.  I can't say I like machine embroidery any more than hand embroidery, but I like the result.  The embroidery also drew the fabric up quite a bit, so the entire thing ended up a bit smaller and the darts now point to ... destinations unknown.  I lined it with a simple cotton from the indoor outside sale (don't ask).
Asian quilted jacket
Every once in while I manage to take a decent photo.
Asian quilted jacket
Lots and lots of random stitching. Lots.
The rest of the photos can be found in my flickr set.
motorharp: line drawing of kid with glasses intently reading (Default)
I actually find time to lj and it's down!  I finished spray-painting my desk today. Or, at least, I ran out of paint and don't feel like buying more. 

I did a fantastic job with the black side.  So good, in fact, that I dropped it and dinged the corner because it was so smooth I couldn't hold on to it.  The red edges didn't work quite as well because the frog tape did not perform as advertised.  The paint leaked underneath the tape and pulled the wood grain up when I removed it. 

However, the surfaces are finished and I now get to figure out how to attach it to the wall. 

Some things to consider:
- Attach hinges to desk or wall first?
- After deciding that, how to hold the desk up to attach unattached half of hinge to wall/desktop?
- How to make sure the side arms are attached so desk is level?

I've also started an embroidery project on a shirt that I've lost that loving feeling for. It's one of those shirts that magically attracts everything within a 978234978 mile radius of me, and the seams wrinkled hideously the first time I washed it.  However, it's a pattern I've made 5 times and love the fit, and it's a shirt that's not a t-shirt, so I didn't want to just get rid of it.  Embroidery should perk it up nicely.

western shirt embroidery

Thanks to [personal profile] gorthx getting a graphics tablet, I finally drew a revised version of a purple sweater that has wonky proportions, and began deconstructing and reassembling it.  It's going pretty quickly. Yay 10.5 needles!

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